These are some photos of the post pusher/pounder.  It works great!  Particularly in very hard ground.  We are able to put over 8,000 pounds of down pressure on the post with the loader bucket full of sand.  Most of the time this wasn’t enough because of the hard and dry ground, so we dropped the load adn pound them in without any problem unless we hit rock (which happened several times).  The only time we had any trouble was if the brakes didn’t hold un a hill (managed to break a couple posts).  We attached it to the loader for several reasons.  It was fairly heavy so moving it is easier and we have positive control of the top of the post.  Easier to keep it straight that way.  It would very well on the articulating loader… turn the steering wheel to move it side to side and move the loader to move it forward and back.  We tried attaching a rod from ball joint as a visual for being plumb, but decided it wasn’t worth it.  The food pad keeps from pushing the post too deep and the latch automatically catches when you are the right depth and allows you to pick the pusher off the post and move to the next one.  Best as a two man operation… load a new post in the pusher, unlatch it and the pipe will slide down the post (bolt at the bottom of the square tubing catches an angle iron welded to the pipe to keep it from coming apart).

- Sid -

CONSTRUCTION TIPS FOR DECKING

Tip 1: screws visible

1. Pre-drill holes (5/16-in diam.)
   into each plank.
   
2. Optional – counter sink all holes (1/2-in.diam.)

Tip 2: screws invisible

1. Pre-drill holes (5/16-in diam.)
   into each plank.
2. Counter sink all holes (1/2-in.diam.) at a depth of 3/8 in.
3. Apply screw caps (available as accessories) to hide screws
   (flat screw caps are 1/2 in. diam)

TIP 3: brackets

1. Pre-drill holes (1/8-in diam.)
   into each plank at a depth of 3/4 in.
2. Fit planks with galvanized metal angles. Working from under, secure planks to joists.

TIP 4: Tongue & Groove

1. Pre-drill 7/32″ diameter holes
2. Countersink holes and use 2″ length #8 stainless steel flat-head wood screws
3. Leave a space of 1/32″ between each plank

MORE TIPS

TOOLS

• APPM-Lumber can be cut, drilled, mitered and sanded with conventional wood working tools. Carbide tipped saw blades are required. Carbide tipped router bits can be used for smoother edge
  

FASTENERS

• Stainless steel screws are required. Install 2 per end of board and alternate in the middle
  
• Pre-drilling is required on all decking boards. Pre-drill with a hole overboard to the next screw size (5/16″ drill bit for #10 screws)
  
• All fasteners should be placed no closer than ¾” from any edge
  
• The uses of adhesives is not recommended

IMPORTANT NOTES

• APPM-Lumber will expand and contract approx. ¼” per 8 board feet over a wide range in temperature. Design considerations should allow for this movement
• When framing, the end of each APPM-Lumber decking board must be on a full joist
• Before installing APPM-Lumber on your wood frame, make sure the frame is fully dried, leveled and squared
• If you need to notch a APPM-Lumber deck board around a post you must only use ” L” notch. The board can be no longer than 4 feet and you must have at least a ¼” gap at the post

SPANS

• The maximum decking span is 12″ on center for 1″ thick boards and 16″ on center for 5/4 boards at 90 degrees of the joist. For conventional designs with proper support systems, consult APPM-Lumber span chart for specific guidance
• Abnormal boarding on the deck surface with large planter, hot tubs, etc.. may require shorter spans and/or additional sub-structure supports
• If installing on a 30 or 45 degree angle, call your distributor for design considerations